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Tom Ford and Khaite, the latest at New York Fashion Week


Translated by

Hernandez Moya Sebastian

Posted on



Sep 14 2021

Even without Ralph, Tommy or Calvin, New York Fashion Week has offered a lot of action this season, with its 5 days dedicated to the Spring-Summer 2022 shows ending on Sunday.

The last major event of the program It was Tom Ford’s; the president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America was in charge of closing the eventful week. With a very complete official calendar, from the hand of NYFW The Shows, which included more than 100 programmed collections, of which we consider that the most outstanding was that of Khaite, the new sensation of the Big Apple.

Tom Ford: Instagram individualism at Lincoln Center

In the past, Tom Ford injected retro American glamor into European major league houses; Now he’s injecting European dynamism into his own big-league brand. Italian optimism of the eighties and French elegance of the seventies, with a touch of Los Angeles.

Like his Capri pants with blazer combos in gold leopard prints; or her moiré velvet knotted shirts with velvet jodhpur pants, two sensational looks from Ford’s spring-summer 2022 collection. In an era of attention seeking, Ford creates attention-seeking apparel, for attention-seeking customers, just like its audience on Sunday, which gathered at the David H Koch Theater at Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.

Like the delightfully named Saweetie, in a lightly knit lace-up dress, or Pom Klementieff in a micro zebra print blazer, or Jennifer Hudson in a velvet robe, silk top, and leather skirt, all in Roman Imperial purple. . Or the attention-grabbing mogul, influencer Camila Coelho, in a magenta biomorphic lace mesh mini cocktail dress over a pair of ultra-bright fuchsia tights.

The clothes that the models wore were accompanied by big and daring accessories: chunky necklaces, wide gold belts and shiny metallic bracelets. The more the merrier, as the models paraded in micro sports bras and parakeet green satin cargo pants tied with gold ankle straps.

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Tom Ford Spring / Summer 2022 – Photo: Matteo Prandoni for BFA.com

In case you missed the message, Ford sent not one, but five links to BTS events (which means ‘behind the scenes’) and previews of their creations. These included three times as many guests as models.

“Increasingly, people do not dress in fashion for the day, but only for the night. Or for social networks. Instagram may be what saves fashion in the end. People now seem to only be dressing up for a red carpet or to fill their pages with photos of themselves in powerfully stylish clothes. Black does not photograph well, so clothing must be increasingly cartoon-like to have energy on the small screens of our phones. It is altering our perception of beauty. It has certainly altered mine, “Ford explained in a statement.

A neatly honest description of your intention. Although a candid assessment of the show would also suggest that this was Ford’s least distinguished collection in a long time.

Khaite: Concept Sportswear Right When You Need It Most

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Khaite – Spring / Summer 2022 – Photo: Hanna Tveite for Khaite

No brand has had as much impact on American fashion in recent years as Khaite, the genius twist on American sportswear invented by designer Catherine Holstein.

Just look at her opening looks at her Sunday show: a large eight-button military coat but made in silver satin and worn by Gigi Hadid; or an artistic A-cut parka in canvas subverted by its contrasting black patch pocket.

Holstein’s skill is deceptively simple, subtly reviving classic ideas, like cleverly draped Greek muse dresses, revamped with endless straps, bows, and criss-cross stitches. It’s not about fashion with a capital ‘M’, but about elegant and sophisticated clothing, which makes women look like they shouldn’t try too hard to look good. Like you don’t need a stylist or a professional buyer to dress her up.

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Khaite – Spring / Summer 2022 – Photo: Hanna Tveite for Khaite

When Catherine makes an oversized silver baseball jacket for Khaite, she flatters the woman who wears it and never wraps her up. When you wear huge shoulder pads in the form of giant scrolls, they look quirky, not strange.

His color palette, of silver, jade, oak and steel, always evokes the key source of his inspiration, the spectacular architecture of New York. However, the parade took place in almost absolute darkness, with a walkway full of sand and leaves, with a charming atmosphere. The subtle style was the responsibility of Vanessa Traina, with a beautiful casting by Piergiorgio Del Moro; this was just what NYC needed this season, a moment of sensual and romantic grace.

It’s a shame that many of us Europeans couldn’t be there to savor the moment.

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