Rocío ALONSO LOPEZ
Sep 15 2021
Saint Laurent, the first major house to lead a wave of Paris Fashion Week outings, has decided to return to the season, according to the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, which published the official calendar this Tuesday for the evening.
The house founded by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, and now owned by luxury giant Kering, staged its most recent show on a Venetian island during the two-year period left by the Paris season.
The decision to leave the French season also ultimately led to the departure of its CEO, Francesca Bellettini, as president of the federation’s ready-to-wear division, as several Paris-based CEOs expressed frustration over the Saint Laurent’s policy of not holding a parade in Paris.
Instead, this season, Saint Laurent will present its parade at 8:00 p.m. on Tuesday, September 28, the first full day of shows in Paris.
The next runway season in Paris will take place from September 27 to October 5 in the form of physical and digital events, with 97 houses registered on the official calendar, almost 40 of which will present real live shows with models.
“According to the Law, the health pass will be mandatory to access physical events. The Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion and the houses registered in the official calendar will also comply with all the recommendations and guidelines of the public authorities ”, the federation stressed in its statement.
All digital events will be broadcast on the Paris Fashion Week digital platform.
Already in April 2020, the house surprised the French organization with its sudden announcement in an official statement: “Saint Laurent will take possession of its calendar and launch its collections following a plan conceived with an updated perspective, driven by creativity.”
In the wake of this move, a host of Kering brands also began to skip official runway seasons such as Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Bottega Veneta, even holding press-free shows in London and Berlin, disappearing from established fashion weeks. .
The fragmentation of the major international seasons has obviously been affected by the pandemic, causing multiple brands to experiment with new catwalk and video formulas.
Even last week, McQueen announced that he would no longer walk in Paris, where he has hosted shows for more than a decade, but would instead hold his next show in London on October 12, the day before Frieze’s opening. Art Fair, previously sponsored by the brand.
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