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New York Fashion Week, the last: Tom Ford and Khaite


Translated by

Aline Bonnefoy

Published on



14.09.2021

Neither Ralph, nor Tommy, nor Calvin – and yet New York Fashion Week was full of action in its five and a half day season. The shows of the spring / summer collections 2022 ended on Sunday evening.

To round off the busy week, the Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Tom Ford, – who else? NYFW The Shows’ weekly program, which included all events, comprised over 100 collections. By far the most breathtaking brand among them was Khaite, the new star in the fashion sky above New York.

Tom Ford: Instagram and Individualism at Lincoln Center

Tom Ford once brought his American retro glamor to major European fashion houses, now he is pumping European pep into his own major fashion house. A mixture of Italian 80s optimism, French elegance of the 70s and Los Angeles flair.

Capri pants with blazer combinations with a golden leopard print, or high-tied flamed velvet shirts with velvet jodhpur pants, which gave Ford’s spring / summer collection 2022 that special kick. In a time of self-profiling, he offers clothing that is guaranteed to attract attention. For self-profiling clients and their guests who met on Sunday at the David H Koch Theater in the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.

Like the American rapper Saweetie in a low-cut lace-up dress, Pom Klementieff in a zebra crossing maxi blazer and Jennifer Hudson in a velvet dressing gown, silk top and leather skirt – in imperial purple. Or the greatest of all self-promoters, the influencer Camila Coelho in a deep red, tight-fitting lace mini dress and tights in screeching pink.

The models parade in Ford’s designs with large and eye-catching accessories – chunky necklaces, thick gold belts and shimmering metal bracelets. According to the motto “the more the better,” they marched in sports bras and bright green satin cargo pants that were held together at the ankles with gold straps.

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Tom Ford Spring / Summer 2022 – Photo: Matteo Prandoni for BFA.com

And so that nobody misses it, Ford sent five behind-the-scenes and first-look links, with three times as many guests as models.

“People increasingly want fashion no longer for the day, but for the night. Or for social media. Instagram could ultimately save fashion. People seem to only dress up for the red carpet or for their pages Filling selfies in incredibly stylish clothes. Black doesn’t come into its own in photos, so the clothes have to be more and more cartoon-like in order to appear on the tiny displays of our smartphones. That changes our perception of beauty. Mine has it on everyone Case certainly affected, “said Ford.

An honest description of his intention. But an honest assessment of the show should also suggest that this was Ford’s least-prominent collection in many years.

Khaite: Conceptual sportswear at the right time

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Khaite – Spring / Summer 2022 – Photo: Hanna Tveite for Khaite

The influence of Khaite on American fashion over the past few years is incomparable. The brand with the cool conceptual approach of American sportswear goes back to the designer Catherine Holstein.

Her opening look – worn by Gigi Hadid – was an eight-button military coat made of silver-colored satin, and she also showed an ornate, flared jacket made of canvas with contrasting black pockets.

Holstein’s basic idea is surprisingly simple, it takes up classic ideas in a subtle way – like the skilfully draped dresses of Greek muses, which were designed with countless stripes, ribbons and zigzags. It’s not about fashion with a capital M, but about dresses that are fine and elegant, and that women can easily look good in. Dresses that make you look like you don’t need a stylist at all.


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Khaite – Spring / Summer 2022 – Photo: Hanna Tveite for Khaite

When Catherine designs a silver XL baseball jacket for Khaite, it is flattering and never overwhelming when it rolls up huge shoulder bags, so they look unique and not bizarre.

Her color palette – silver, jade green, oak and steel – always leads back to the source of her inspiration, the dramatic architecture of New York. The show was held in the semi-darkness, on a sandy catwalk covered in leaves, which made for a lovely backdrop. With the perfect styling by Vanessa Traina and an excellent selection of models by Piergiorgio Del Moro, Kaithe offered exactly what NYC needed this season – a spirited, romantic, graceful break.

It’s just a shame that many Europeans couldn’t attend this moment in person.

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