The pandemic is not over yet, but the models in New York returned to the catwalks this week.
With the sun in their hearts and in the collections, the designers are clearly longing for a new normal. However, this is associated with a nervous flight from reality and an increased desire for long weekends and living in the country.
The big fashion houses and influential designers increasingly returned to the catwalks in the six-day US fashion week that has just ended. Before the event ended on Sunday, we stopped by four major Spring / Summer 2022 collections across town – Proenza Schouler, Moschino, Carolina Herrera and Michael Kors.
Proenza Schouler: City Girls on the Beach
Young girls who are anything but needy: Proenza Schouler is and will remain an excellent indicator of the coming trends in American fashion.
The label’s show was organized by the water on Wednesday evening, with the wooden fences typical of beaches in North America in the background. Quite fitting when you consider that women in New York often only work 80 percent these days and their weekend at New York’s house beach The Hamptons starts on Thursday evening.
The collection by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for the spring / summer season 2022 still offered very urban fashion. With powerful cuts, from the introductory safari jacket with angled shoulder to a superwoman jacket with a sleeveless wrap-around trench coat made of natural white or deep brown deerskin to a fabulous yellow zebra coat.
Dresses for traveling, in a new, almost post-professional era, in which people can escape the constraints of their office and dress much more romantically. As seen on a fantastic chess piece dress with pearls, spaghetti-like fringes and cut-outs on the sides – in canary yellow or amaranth red.
The highlight of the show was a trio of colorful and floor-length pastel dresses that looked incredibly elegant and definitely brand new. In addition, the models wore male-looking slippers and sandals of raw elegance with great Dia Day bags, spiced up with hand-woven raffia elements and artificial crocodile leather.
The designer duo described the collection in the following words: “A celebration of newly discovered freedoms, however fragile they may be, combined with an absolute optimism for everything that lies ahead”.
Moschino: Fashionable eye candy
Petrus was not well-disposed towards Moschino this season, but the label was gifted with intelligence and ingenuity. Jeremy Scott’s collection, unveiled in the persistent drizzle in Bryant Parkt, was a prime example of humorous and optimistic fashion with bite.
Drawing on retro pop and toddler graphics, Scott sent flared dresses with puff sleeves and short flamenco jackets with even shorter skirts and matching bustiers down the catwalk. And utterly flattering picnic dresses with huge pink heart buttons.
Jeremy’s favorite fabrics for the coming spring are covered in naive pastel prints of pink bears, turquoise elephants and purple sheep – fantastic ideas for children’s room wallpapers. In addition, endless bangles, Afros with pearls of hair and high-heeled shoes in sugar-sweet shades of color. The models parade with matching handbags – the color optimally matched to the overall look.
“This is what dreams are made of,” explains Scott, whose collection should make women particularly happy. In a slightly absurd twist – a key element of Franco Moschinos DANN – the animal prints grew into a third dimension at the finale.
His high-quality model crew – from Gigi Hadid to Imaan Hammam – strolled by while the masked spectators found refuge under wide golf umbrellas and the photographers hurried to their seats. After the show, Scott bowed to the audience and appeared in a wheelchair alongside the wonderful Antiguan-American transgender model Aaron Philip.
Carolina Herrera celebrates its 40th anniversary
The designer Wes Gordon celebrated the 40th birthday of the Carolina Herrera fashion house with a contemplative show in a famous townhouse in New York’s Upper East Side.
Carolina Herrera has always been a very patrician fashion house, and this collection was no exception. Carolina’s key look in a new version with puffed shoulders – a ladylike white suit, majestic black and white silk dresses and jacquard cocktail dresses, all very Carolina Herrera.
Under Wes Gordon, Herrera customers rejuvenated by around a decade – as seen in the wonderful white cotton shirts with ruffled flowers and Jesuit sleeves, but also in classy, sequined micro cocktail dresses with checked patterns in purple and beige. And really excellent: On some great clothes he incorporated the classic Carolina dot pattern with a new logo lettering.
His best ideas were probably his biggest too – anthracite-colored, sequined bustiers with huge satin waves and mini dresses with endless trains.
In a certain sense, the collection was a good bet on the future that society would return to normal in the coming spring, with celebrations and parties, weddings and extravagant weekends. Let’s hope Wes wins this bet.
Michael Kors: Fun in Central Park
America’s most exuberant designer, Michael Kors, is going back to nature this season and organizing a show at Central Park’s famous Tavern on the Green restaurant.
It felt like it used to be, with a group of stars – Kate Hudson with an iPhone out in the front row, next to the new CEO of the house, Joshua Schulman and the brand’s highest arbitrator, John D Idol, CEO of the parent company Capri.
Regardless of the green surroundings, the dresses on display were resolutely urban – a small black halterneck dress, flared leather skirts and extra-soft trench coats in pink or natural white.
The evening wear convinced with a divine leather shift dress with cutouts and several great pencil dresses with guipure embroidery as well as wide skirts with undershirts. For a weekend at the beach, Kors offered black cashmere sweaters with a red heart and a hand over it.
Several models carried tote bags and bucket bags, and some roses peeked out, even if this allusion to the glamorous jet set life seemed a bit unfamiliar in view of the prevailing mood.
The bassist and singer Ariana DeBose provided the music for the show with classics such as My Baby Just Cares For Me. A glossy performance with Kendall Jenner on the catwalk and most of the models with ruby red lips.
In short, this was far from Michael Kors’ best collection, but at least it was an expression of optimism after the never-ending lockdowns.
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